Friday, October 29, 2010

Equipping a Home Kitchen

When I got married 3 years ago I found myself considering what things we wanted or needed to get to equip a “new” kitchen. My wife had most things needed, and I brought a few with me, but much of the equipment was hand-me-down or cheaply bought. Hand-me-downs CAN be great, but some things, like cheap knives and a few thin pots were clearly going to have to be replaced. I did a fair amount of research and thinking about what I would really use before registering. Since then, we’ve picked up a few additional things, but by and large we continue along with the items we had before marriage and the few key things we registered for.

I wanted to put this experience down in words in case it can help anyone else considering a new knife or pan, or maybe looking to equip their whole kitchen. There’s a lot to tackle and I’m not trying to write a book here, so I’ll try to be concise and organized. I’ll talk about materials and quality, pans, pots, cutlery, and a few odds and ends.

Materials and Quality:

As a general statement, if you have the money and the time to clean them get copper and be done with it. Copper is the best cookery metal for distributing heat and it looks fantastic to boot. If you don’t want to spend the money, or the cleaning time on copper your best bet is a combination of stainless steel and non-stick pans. Non-stick can’t go in the dishwasher usually, and even with the best care you’ll likely still end up replacing them eventually. Stainless steel is often dishwasher safe, and if something is really stuck on you can take some steel wool or other abrasive cleaner to it. Stainless steel is the definite winner when it comes to searing food and developing good color, just remember to use a bit of oil/butter and get the pan good and hot before putting your meat/vegetable in and then don’t move it around until it’s seared on one side.

One downsides to stainless steel is that, unlike copper, it is not great at distributing heat. Aluminum is pretty good though. My recommendation for the ultimate in strong, good searing, better than average heat distribution is to get a pan that combines aluminum and stainless steel. Sometimes this is called, “tri-ply” in that they have distinct layers of aluminum and stainless. I have the Calphalon pan which has stainless steel on the top and bottom layers, which gives it the ability to sear well and work on induction stoves, but has a layer of aluminum inside which helps with heat distribution. I love this pan. It feels good in my hand, cooks well, and when used right is actually pretty easy to clean.

In choosing WHICH stainless steel or non-stick to get, I decided to go middle of the road. I felt it was important to get dishes that were well constructed and wouldn’t have to be thrown away because the handle was getting lose/falling off. I opted for cookware that all had solid metal handles and good solid rivets. Getting solid metal handles also meant I could transfer something from the stove top to the oven…just make sure the pan/pot is listed as being oven safe. Personally, I wouldn’t spend more than $50 on a pan or pot. I’d scour the internet and T.J. Max, but would not spend

Pans:

In general, if it has a single long handle it’s a pan, even if it’s deep. A deep pan may be called a sauce pan. Skillet is another word for pan. For my cooking habits I chose the following sizes. A 10” stainless steel for general searing/frying. A 10” non-stick for omelets and other general cooking tasks. A 12” non-stick for general cooking of larger quantities. That was it. The stainless steel I got is oven safe, so I can sear something on the stove top and then transfer to the oven to slowly cook it with indirect heat.

Pots:

We already had several larger stock pots so the only item I added was a good sturdy bottom sauce pan. I’ll list it under “Pots” because most of the time I use it like a pot, boiling water or making small batches of soup. This is a 4 quart stainless steel sauce pan with a thick steel and copper bottom. For this, I ended up getting a KitchenAid that has stainless steel on the inside, and a composite bottom that has a layer of copper and a layer of stainless steel. It give the pan a good thick/solid bottom that distributes heat very evenly, which is something important especially if you’re heating something “delicate” like milk that you’re trying not to scorch. Also, the handle of this sauce pan is stainless steel with a silicone rubber grip. This means that, I can put it in a warm/hot oven to keep it warm or finish cooking something without worrying about the plastic handle melting. I have found that because the silicone is only on top and bottom, that if I have been boiling something for any amount of time the SIDE of the handle can be uncomfortably hot so I bought a removable silicone handle “hot pad” to use with this as well as taking hot skillets out of the oven.

Cutlery:

It sounds counter intuitive, but the sharper the knife, the safer it is. The idea behind this is that, a dull knife requires more cutting pressure/force than a sharp knife. Having to push harder with a dull knife means you’re more likely to slip and cut yourself. So, which knives are best for you? Unfortunately this one is very personal. Some people only want one or two knives, some want a whole set. Some want every knife serrated, some despise serrated knives. My suggestion is to pick up AT LEAST, an 8” Chef’s knife and a smaller pairing knife. Both of these should be non-serrated in my opinion. The other minimum requirement should be a sharpening steel. If you are uncomfortable using this, ask someone at the store (if it’s a kitchen store) or watch a video on youtube. The sharpening steel will NOT put a new edge on your blade, it WILL help keep the very thin cutting surface aligned and working well. Ideally you would use the steel every time or every few times you use the knife. If you are looking to get a set, the most important blades, in my opinion, are the ones that come standard with most sets anyway. I frequently use: 8” chef’s knife/santoku, pairing knife, serrated bread knife, sharpening steel, and kitchen scissors/shears. I do use the carving knife several times a year and am very glad I have it when I need it. I was fortunate enough to end up receiving a J.A. Henckels knife set for a wedding present and it’s probably one of the most used gifts in the kitchen.

Dutch Oven:

Once you get past the kitchen essentials, there are endless doodads and “others” you can consider. One of my personal favorites is the Dutch Oven. I think of it as sort of a non-powered crock pot. The best thing, in my opinion, about a dutch oven, is starting a roast or other item on the stove top by searing it and developing wonderful color/flavor and then transferring it to the oven, lid on, to continue cooking slowly and letting the item cook slowly with low heat to get tender and juicy. I chose an enameled cast iron dutch oven. The great thing about this piece of cookware is that it should pretty much last forever. You can spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a dutch oven with someone like Le Cruset, but I found a good one at target for $49.99. One thing to look for here is a lid that really sits securely around the entire perimeter of the “pot”.

Accessories:

If equipping a kitchen from scratch, I’d recommend getting a combination of wooden, plastic, and metal spatulas and spoons. I use plastic on my non-stick, and wood//metal on my stainless steel. I like the wooden for spoons because they work great scrapping the “frond” off the bottom of a stainless steel pan when making a pan sauce or gravy. I like the stainless steel for spatulas to use with steel pans, and I like the plastic spatulas/spoons for use with the non-stick so I don’t scratch.

In addition to spoons and spatulas, you’ll want some trivets or cooling racks to set hot pans/pots/trays on when you need to put them somewhere to cool or to bring them to the table. We have both trivets and racks. Sometimes, like brunch parties, we’re using all of them, so you can’t really have enough of these.

Hot pads are essential, particularly taking things in and out of the oven. I really like the silicone ones we got. We have two kinds, the flat square kind that also work as a trivet in a pinch, and the folded “finger glove” kind that work really well for taking things out of the oven. Also, as mentioned above I got one that is shaped like a tube or sleeve that is designed specifically to slide over the handle of a pot, that makes removing skillets that have been transferred to the oven to finish, much easier.

Mixing Bowls: get ones that you like. That’s about it. Make sure you get a variety of sizes and enough that you can mix multiple things up, and use some as salad bowls. Some people like to keep one by their cooking area as a “trash bowl” so they don’t have to keep running to the trashcan if it’s inconvenient. No reason to get a specific trash bowl, really any big bowl will do.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Photography Workflow, such as it is...

Other than for iPhone pictures (which come straight off the phone and get emailed to flickr directly), my workflow is pretty much the same for all of my pictures. When I get home I load the pictures onto my hard drive and import them into Lightroom, the photo management/editing software I use most.

From there I cull through the many photos I took (over 1,000 photos in one week for this vacation, similar for Italy). I "stack" similar pictures so that I only see the best one from that group when I'm flipping through casually. Then once I only have the best of what I've taken showing, I look through and find what pictures interest me, even a little. I give those a minimum rating of 2 stars. Then I filter to only the 2 star photos and start looking for the pictures that really stand out. Those get 3 stars and then I edit most of the 3 star pictures. Out of 100 pictures I might have 20 or 30 that I think are really worth anything, this is partially because I end up shooting the same thing 4 or 5 times usually, to make sure I have an exposure and, if it's people, expressions that I'm happy with. Then out of those 20 or 30 pictures There might be 5 or 10 that are real keepers. Those 5 or 10, out of 100, are the ones that I edit first and post to Flickr.

Typically, my "editing" in Lightroom is pretty simple. I adjust the color a bit. Typically I tweak the exposure using the various sliders to get a picture where the light areas are just short of clipping, and there are some areas in the photo that have a true black area in them, and then use the fill light and contrast to punch up any dull or dim areas. Then I go through and play with the vibrance/saturation until the picture has the right effect. The last thing that I typically do is to adjust noise reduction and sharpening. The kit lens I have (the 18-55mm) is not the sharpest in the world, plus I really need to do a better job of keeping it clean for the crispest possible photos. Other things I might occasionally do include removing spots from the photo if there was something on the lens or something small in the scene, like trash or something, that would be easy to remove, and I sometimes crop the picture to focus on something in the picture or adjust the framing if I was in a hurry when I took the photo. I'd rather just take the photo properly the first time though that crop, that way I still have the most pixels possible left.

I have my camera set to save in RAW format only. The very last step of the workflow, for the "chosen" photos, is to export them to jpeg and upload those jpegs to Flickr. Typical workflow for, say 100 photos, takes about 10 minutes to sort, maybe 30 minutes to edit, and about 15 minutes to upload and title in Flickr. So all told about 1 hour, average. This time may be more or less depending on how many good photos really came from the outing. On average though I'm happy if 1 in 10 is decent and 1 in 20 is really good.

Things I'm not doing right now that I REALLY should be doing include: automatic backup to a second hard drive in case something happens to the first. This is probably the BIGGEST thing that I'm NOT doing that I really NEED to be doing. Other than that, I'm not exporting everything to JPEG, which I could be doing to let Amon have a more manageable photo library that she can use in iPhoto, and I'm not using a camera/lens profile within Lightroom to help optimize my photos.

Something else that I don't really consider part of my "workflow" since i just started doing it with the photos from this West Coast vacation photos, and it's really more of an "effect" is HDR. For this I've only done the most basic HDR workflow. I imported the photos into Lightroom as described above. From there I can pick and compare a few photos that have been taken specifically with HDR in mind. When I'm out shooting, if there is a scene with VERY high contrast, like a dim room with windows in it or a forest with bright sunlight breaking through, then I will use a tripod to lock the camera down, and shoot several exposures. Ideally I will take an "average" shot and then a photo exposed for the shadows, and a photo exposed for the bright areas. Then once those pictures are in Lightroom I identify which ones I'm going to use and start up Photoshop. Within Photoshop I use the automate->merge to HDR option and select the files I've noted. I use Photoshop to merge the photos and decide how much contrast/exposure the final photo will have using the information from all the individual photos. This photo is then imported BACK into Lightroom where I do the final tweaking that I would do on any other photo, export to JPG, and upload to Flickr like normal.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Monday, March 08, 2010

Daylight Long Exposure


Variation on a Theme III: Waterfall
Originally uploaded by mikeygibran

The Idea

While a long exposure at night can result in fantasy scenes with light trails and skies lit up like day by streetlights, a long exposure during daylight will typically result in so much light that the image is completely washed out. I have been experimenting with using a very dark filter to block enough light out to leave the shutter open for minutes at a time and still achieved good exposure.

Setup-at-a-Glance
Camera: dslr - Nikon d40
Lens: kit zoom - Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Filters: ND filter - B+W neutral density filter, 10 stop
Mount: tripod - Manfrotto Modo Max

Behind the shot
This photo is from Great Falls park in Maryland. It’s another attempt at daylight long exposure. The amount of light from the sun is overwhelming to a long exposure shot. You may be able to set the aperture way down, say f/20-32 depending on your lens, but even then having the shutter open for minutes at a time will still result in frames that are solid white. That is unless you put something in front of the lens to block lots of light – enter the neutral density filter. The filter looks a bit like the glass in a welding helmet, very dark. It blocks light equally across the visible spectrum, meaning it doesn’t color the image or that it is “neutral”, hence the name.

By using this type of filter, you can achieve the same results using long exposure shots during the daytime that you would get a night. There are lots of possibilities including turning water into a fantasy land mass of clouds, to getting the same sorts of trails from vehicles that you would at night, but with different types of detail since you pick up the entire vehicle, not just the lights, to blurring crowds of people. Another nice trick with long exposure shots in the daytime is that you can use them to make people disappear, literally.

If you are trying to photograph a building, and there are not many people walking by, but you just still can’t seem to get a frame devoid of people, use a long exposure shot. The building will be in the frame, not moving, the whole time, while any given walking person will only be in a specific spot for a brief time, at most a few seconds. Once you expose the photo, say for 120 seconds, the contribution to the image from that one person being there for 1 second, maybe 2, is minimal, and they disappear! Note that this won’t work with people standing around, or with huge crowds of people because you need to be able to see any given part of the building for substantially longer that the amount of time when there are people in front of it. It sort of “averages” out the people.

Process
So far I have found the best way to set these photos up, with my camera, is with a three step process: align the shot, add the filter, then set exposure. I align the camera and lens in automatic focus mode to get the exact image zoom, camera positioning, and focus I want while there is still enough light coming through the lens. Also, keeping the camera in autofocus mode prevents the focus ring from turning while you put the filter on. After setting up the frame and focusing, the filter goes on and the camera can then be put into manual focus mode. By putting the camera back into manual focus mode the camera will stay on the focus you've just set and not hunt for focus when you press the shutter release. If you leave the camera in autofocus with the filter on, it will most likely not have enough light coming through the lens to get proper focus and will just keeping searching. The last step is to use trial and error to dial in on the desired exposure setting, best done with manually setting the aperture and shutter until the desired image is achieved. You can tweak the balance between the aperture and shutter to get the best combination of depth of field and motion blur for the image you are trying to achieve.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

La Madeleine III


La Madeleine III
Originally uploaded by mikeygibran

Just got new pics put up from our weekend with Jan. More to come? Check out my flickr photostream for the other great photos from La Madeleine

Monday, February 15, 2010

Telecommune with Nature

Written as Satire...

I can see a whole new market...you know how people go on nature retreats or go camping? They go out in the wood and, like, beat on drums and they howl at things? They drink really nasty tea, or eat burnt bread out of a filthy dutch oven...Something like that?

Well, who has the time for that today? And besides, it does mother nature more harm than good to fly out to Montana, rent a stinky SUV, and drive your cold metal tent stakes into the soft life-giving top soil. All the standard camping things are actually really terrible for the environment, cutting down trees to burn them and maybe leave live coals smoldering. Defecating in a trench and leaving the foreign bacteria there to reek havoc on the delicate ecosystem. Camping is horrible for the environment.

Introducing "Telecommune with Nature"

Just set up a tent in your living room and then log onto a website that has webcam footage and ambient microphone audio from "campsites" around the country at all the best National Parks. Additionally, friends and family can log into the same campsite so you can go camping with all your friends around the United States without ever leaving the safety of your home. Telecommuning combines the best aspects of the National Parks, video chats, and chat rooms.

“Experience” nature from the safety of your home. You have a bathroom, AC/Heating and a kitchen and the bears will have a hard time getting through your home security system. Your flimsy tent can't say that. So, logon now to Telecommune with Nature to find out how you can have all the best of the outdoors, without leaving your house or contributing to global warming.

Sunday, February 07, 2010

Snow Crystals


Snow Crystals
Originally uploaded by mikeygibran
One of my favorites from the photos I just posted to Flickr. Go check out the whole set:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcolburn

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Apple Tablet is Born!

New apple tablet was announced 14 minutes ago. The gadget world has been waiting for this for at least 6 years. In that time, several tablet type computers have been released by various companies and all have failed except for their laptop functionality. None have really started a new category of "tablet" as distinct from a laptop.

Will apples device live up to the hype? The next few years will tell.